How To Get Rid Of Barnyard Grass In 4 Simple Steps

Barnyard Grass

Finding barnyard grass invading your lawn can be incredibly frustrating. This rapidly growing annual weed forms large clumps and competes aggressively with surrounding turfgrass. Left unchecked, barnyard grass quickly dominates lawns during the hot, dry conditions of summer. Reclaim your lawn’s health and beauty using these 4 simple steps to get rid of barnyard grass for good. This comprehensive guide covers grass-safe herbicides, proper timing, cultural practices, and prevention methods using a strategic integrated approach. Arm yourself with the knowledge and tools to eliminate barnyard grass and keep it from returning year after year. Bid farewell to this bothersome weed and enjoy a lush, vigorous lawn this summer and beyond!

How To Get Rid Of Barnyard Grass In 4 Simple Steps

What Is Barnyard Grass?

Barnyard grass (Echinochloa crus-galli) is a common annual grassy weed that can quickly invade lawns and gardens during the summer months. This unwelcome guest thrives in the hot and dry conditions that also weaken turfgrass. Understanding what barnyard grass is and why it’s such a nuisance can help you get rid of it for good.

Description and Identification

Barnyard grass is often called “water grass” since it flourishes in moist areas and can even grow when partially submerged in water. It has long, slender green leaves that are smooth on both sides and rounded at the tip. The slender, branching stems grow rapidly upward, sometimes reaching 3 feet high by maturity.

One key identifying feature is the reddish-purple base of the stems. The seed heads have a distinctive, open-branching panicle shape. When the plant goes to seed, these delicate panicles take on a fuzzy, bushy appearance.

While crabgrass is often confused with barnyard grass, a few differences help distinguish between them. Barnyard grass stems are smooth and hairless, while crabgrass has hairy stems. The leaves of crabgrass are also rougher to the touch. Crabgrass turns brown after frost, but barnyard grass remains green.

Where It Grows

A native of Eurasia, barnyard grass escaped cultivation to spread across temperate regions worldwide. In the United States, it’s commonly seen growing in crop fields, disturbed areas, drainage ditches, pond margins, and wet meadows.

During the hottest, driest parts of summer, barnyard grass invades lawns, gardens, and landscaped areas. Thin turf and bare, stressed patches are the most vulnerable. It’s especially problematic in lawns that don’t receive adequate moisture. Places where foot traffic wears down the grass also invite barnyard grass growth.

It thrives in rich, moist soils but can adapt to poorly drained or even occasionally flooded areas. The lightweight seeds spread easily to surrounding properties on the wind, shoes, vehicles, and mowing equipment. Birds and other wildlife also disperse the seeds through droppings.

Why It’s a Problem Weed

Once barnyard grass sneaks into your yard, it can be difficult to control due to its rapid growth rate and prolific seed production. Left unchecked, it forms thick clumps and mats that crowd out desirable grass. Just a few established plants can produce up to 40,000 seeds and reinfest your lawn again next year.

The ecological impacts of barnyard grass also make it a problematic weed. It’s one of the first exotic plants to establish and dominate in disturbed habitats. Barnyard grass displaces native species, reduces biodiversity, and degrades wildlife habitat. It’s considered a major invasive species in natural wetlands.

In agricultural settings, barnyard grass competes aggressively with food crops. Just a few plants per square yard can lead to yield losses. It harbors harmful virus diseases that affect rice production. The weed also interferes with harvest, clogs machinery, and reduces the quality and value of crops.

Getting barnyard grass under control quickly saves time, money, and frustration down the road. Keeping your lawn thick and healthy is the best defense against invasion. But at the first sign of the weed, take action with selective herbicides and improved lawn care practices. With persistence and patience, you can rid your yard of this unwelcome summer guest.

Preventing Barnyard Grass

Seeing barnyard grass pop up in your lawn can be disheartening. But stopping it before it starts is much easier than trying to control an existing infestation. With good cultural practices and pre-emergent herbicides, you can keep this weed from ever gaining a foothold.

Proper Mowing, Fertilization, and Watering for a Healthy Lawn

A vigorously growing, dense lawn is your first line of defense against barnyard grass. Follow these tips to maintain thick, weed-resistant turf:

Mow high. Raise your mower blades to 3-4 inches. Taller grass shades the soil surface, preventing weed seeds from germinating. It also develops deeper roots and is more drought tolerant. Never cut off more than 1/3 of the total blade height at once.

Leave clippings. Letting grass clippings decompose returns nitrogen and moisture to the lawn. It also provides a natural mulch barrier against weeds. Make sure your mower blades are sharp so clippings break down faster.

Water deeply. Provide your lawn with 1-1.5 inches of water each week. Early morning is the best time to water. Wet the soil to a depth of 4-6 inches to encourage deep root growth. Avoid frequent, light watering that only dampens the surface.

Fertilize correctly. Perform a soil test to determine your lawn’s nutritional needs. Look for a balanced fertilizer with a 3:1:2 or 4:1:2 NPK ratio. Apply in spring, summer, and fall according to label directions. Proper feeding strengthens grass to outcompete weeds.

Dethatch yearly. Thatch buildup prevents water, air, and nutrients from reaching the soil. Dethatching also removes potential weed seedlings. Use a rake or dethatching machine when grass is growing actively.

Aerate compacted areas. Soil compaction prevents grass roots from growing deeply. Aerating opens up the ground and allows air, water and fertilizer to penetrate. Aim to aerate at least once per year during the growing season.

Fill in bare spots. Bare areas are prime real estate for barnyard grass to move in. Quickly reseed any thin or dead patches to keep your lawn dense. Use a starter fertilizer to help new grass establish a healthy root system.

Adjust your routine. Keep observing your lawn’s response and adjust maintenance practices as needed. Proper lawn care tailored to your grass type and local conditions gives barnyard grass nowhere to take hold.

Pre-Emergent Herbicides in Spring

While cultural methods strengthen your turf, barnyard grass seeds may still blow in from other areas. Stop them from ever sprouting with a pre-emergent herbicide like prodiamine or dithiopyr.

Pre-emergents create a chemical barrier that prevents weed seeds from germinating. But they won’t affect seeds that have already begun growing. That’s why early spring application is crucial.

Follow these tips for success with pre-emergent herbicides:

  • Apply in early to mid spring before soil temperatures reach 55-60°F. This coincides with just before barnyard grass normally germinates.
  • Read and follow label directions carefully, especially for application rate. Use a spreader for even coverage.
  • Irrigate after application to move the product into the soil. Rainfall will also activate pre-emergents.
  • Reapply every 60-90 days if needed during the growing season. Consider a follow-up application in early fall as well.
  • Use a pre-emergent specially formulated for lawns, rather than a general landscaping product. Combination products like weed-and-feed are not very effective.
  • Avoid applying to new lawns until they are well established. Wait until after the second or third mowing.

While pre-emergents don’t kill existing weeds, they are invaluable at halting new flushes of summer annual weeds like barnyard grass. Be sure to combine with sound cultural practices that encourage vigorous, healthy turf.

Good Lawn Care and Maintenance Routines

Barnyard grass loves thin, stressed lawns and bare soil. That’s why keeping your turf thick and lush all season long is one of the best preventive measures. Develop smart lawn care habits tailored to your grass type.

Here are some key tips:

  • Start mowing once your grass is about one-third taller than the recommended height. For cool season grasses, that’s around 3 inches. Warm season grasses can start at 1.5-2 inches.
  • Use the “1/3 rule” for mowing – never cut off more than one-third of total blade length in a single mowing session.
  • Leave clippings on the lawn as free fertilizer, unless they are clumping. Be sure to sharpen mower blades at least once a year.
  • Water deeply and infrequently. Most lawns need about 1-1.5 inches per week from rain or irrigation.
  • Fertilize at least twice a year – spring and fall for cool season grass; early summer and fall for warm season grass.
  • Dethatch and aerate to alleviate soil compaction that impedes root growth.
  • Overseed thin or bare areas in early fall so turf fills in before winter dormancy.
  • Scout regularly and treat weeds when small. Apply post-emergent herbicides safely according to label directions.

The higher the quality of care your lawn receives, the less opportunity barnyard grass and other weeds have to invade. A maintained lawn is a more weed-proof lawn. Develop proactive maintenance routines suited for your grass type and stick with them. Your efforts will pay off in a lush, healthy lawn.

Here is an 1800 word article section on “How To Get Rid Of Barnyard Grass”:

How To Get Rid Of Barnyard Grass

If barnyard grass has already invaded your lawn, taking action quickly is key before the infestation gets out of hand. Hand pulling small patches and spot treating with post-emergent herbicides are effective ways to gain control. Understanding herbicide options and how to use them properly will lead to the best results.

Hand Pulling for Small Infestations

For light infestations of barnyard grass, manual removal may be feasible. Hand pulling is most practical when plants are young and the ground is damp. Take advantage of barnyard grass’s shallow root system to remove the entire plant.

Follow these tips for successful hand pulling:

  • Wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from irritation. Barnyard grass stems and leaves have rough edges.
  • Use a weeding tool like a hula hoe or soil knife to sever roots just below the surface. This makes removal easier.
  • Grasp stems low and close to the base. Pull slowly and steadily straight up to uproot the entire plant.
  • Remove any remaining roots or fragments left behind so they don’t resprout.
  • Dispose of pulled plants immediately in garbage bags. Never compost weeds with seeds or ripe seed heads.
  • Stay on top of regrowth. Immature barnyard grass can produce new seed heads in just one week after mowing or cutting.
  • Consider scattering grass seed in bare spots after weeding to fill in those vulnerable areas.

Hand pulling is tedious work, so it’s best suited for small areas of new growth. But it’s inexpensive and avoids the use of chemicals. For larger infestations, selective herbicides are usually needed.

Post-Emergent Herbicides for Larger Areas

Post-emergent herbicides kill weeds after they’ve begun growing. These systemic products translocate down to the roots, providing total control. They’re formulated to target broadleaf or grassy weeds while leaving desirable lawn grasses unharmed.

Two types of post-emergent herbicides effective on barnyard grass are glyphosate and quinclorac.

Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide that kills all actively growing plants, not just weeds. Quinclorac is grass-specific and won’t harm lawn grasses like fescue, bluegrass, ryegrass, or Bermuda.

Both are absorbed through barnyard grass leaves and move throughout the plant. Applied correctly, they can provide season-long weed control.

Spot Treatment Methods

To avoid harming wanted plants, it’s essential to use post-emergent herbicides selectively. Spot treatment allows you to spray only the barnyard grass, without exposing the entire lawn.

Follow these tips for effective spot spraying:

  • Use a low-pressure, high-accuracy wand attachment for your sprayer. Adjust the nozzle to a narrow fan or cone spray.
  • Precisely target only the barnyard grass plants, covering all stems and leaves without overspray.
  • Place a board, cardboard or plastic tarp behind the weeds as a backstop to prevent drift.
  • Spray on a calm day to avoid wind blowing the herbicide onto desired vegetation.
  • Wear protective equipment like gloves, long sleeves, pants, goggles and an apron.
  • Dilute the product concentration for spot spraying. Mix herbicides to the lower end of the recommended range.

Taking your time to carefully apply post-emergent herbicides only where needed prevents broadleaf and grassy lawns from becoming damaged.

Tips for Effective Herbicide Application

Following label directions precisely is critical for herbicide products to work safely and successfully. Here are some key tips:

Read the label thoroughly – Follow all instructions for mixing, timing, rate, equipment, techniques, and precautions. Only use herbicides approved for lawn application.

Spray at the right growth stage – Apply post-emergent herbicides when barnyard grass is young and actively growing for best uptake and translocation. Mature plants are harder to control.

Use a surfactant – These spreading agents help the herbicide stick to and penetrate the waxy leaf surface. Some products contain surfactants, or you can purchase separately.

Re-treat if needed – If barnyard grass is still visible after 7-10 days, you may need a repeat application. Don’t exceed label rate limits for seasonal total.

Avoid mowing just before or after – Wait several days after herbicide application to mow. Mowing right before can remove surface area needed for herbicide uptake.

Careful spot treatment and proper application timing and techniques give post-emergent herbicides the best chance of delivering effective control. Pay particular attention to label instructions for products containing glyphosate or quinclorac.

Glyphosate Herbicides

Glyphosate is the most widely used herbicide worldwide. When applied to foliage, it moves throughout the plant and disables the shikimic acid metabolic pathway. This stops production of key amino acids needed for growth and survival.

Glyphosate herbicides are marketed under several brand names:

  • Roundup
  • Rodeo
  • Accord
  • and others

While very effective, glyphosate is non-selective and will kill or damage most plants it contacts. But because barnyard grass has shallow roots, you can spray glyphosate around established trees and shrubs with minimal risk if you avoid direct contact with leaves and stems.

Use extreme caution to prevent glyphosate from drifting onto wanted vegetation. Apply ONLY as a spot treatment to individual barnyard grass plants. Thorough coverage is important for optimal results.

Glyphosate works best when daytime temperatures will remain above 60°F for several days. Hot and sunny conditions enhance uptake and translocation within the plant. Avoid mowing for several days before and after application.

Removing dead vegetation after treatment can leave bare spots. Be prepared to reseed treated areas with new grass once the herbicide has had a chance to break down in the soil. This prevents further weed infestations.

Quinclorac Herbicides

Quinclorac is a selective herbicide that controls grassy weeds like crabgrass and barnyard grass in turfgrass. It translocates to the roots and shoots, causing plant cells to lose integrity and leak. Barnyard grass treated with quinclorac turns whitish before dying.

Look for these products containing quinclorac:

  • Ortho Weed B Gon Max Plus Crabgrass Control
  • Bayer All-In-One Lawn Weed and Crabgrass Killer
  • Scotts Halts Crabgrass & Grassy Weed Preventer
  • Ferti-lome Crabgrass, Dallisgrass & Broadleaf Weed Killer
  • and other trade names

Quinclorac works best when barnyard grass is young and actively growing. Mature plants are more difficult to control. Thorough coverage of all leaves and stems is important, as quinclorac must contact the weed to work.

Combine quinclorac with a methylated seed oil additive if applying during hot, dry conditions. The oil enhances penetration through the waxy leaf cuticle. Re-treatment may be required for complete control since it does not translocate as thoroughly as glyphosate.

Quinclorac can be a good option for spot treating barnyard grass invasions in lawns and turf areas. Always follow label directions and cautions closely to avoid lawn injury and herbicide resistance.

When and How to Apply Glyphosate vs. Quinclorac

Choosing whether to use glyphosate vs quinclorac depends on your situation:

Glyphosate is ideal for:

  • Spot treating barnyard grass invasions along fences, landscape beds, pathways and patios where contacting desirable plants is not a risk
  • Large infestations in vegetable gardens, flower beds, open ground
  • Areas that will be re-seeded after treatment

Quinclorac is better for:

  • Barnyard grass growing throughout lawns and turfs you want to preserve
  • Smaller patches invading established grasses like bermuda, zoysia, fescue, rye, and bluegrass

Quinclorac requires accurate, uniform application to be effective yet avoid turf injury. Use glyphosate for mass infestations where controlling overspray and drift is difficult.

Both can take 7-14 days to display full results. Be patient and allow herbicides to work. Avoid repeated spraying too soon or exceeding label rates. Follow-up spot treatment is permissible if needed.

Compare herbicide labels and select products wisely depending on your specific situation. Used properly, post-emergent herbicides like glyphosate and quinclorac provide excellent control of stubborn barnyard grass invasions.

Stopping Reinfestation

Killing off an existing barnyard grass invasion is only half the battle. Preventing reinfestation requires improving growing conditions and stopping new seeds from germinating. A bit of diligence now will pay off in a weed-free lawn for years to come.

Address Causes of Thin and Stressed Lawn

Barnyard grass thrives where turfgrass is thin, stressed or dying out. Restore bare areas and improve growing conditions to prevent reinvasion.

Evaluate drainage – Does water stand for 48 hours after rain? Poor drainage promotes barnyard grass. Improve drainage through aeration, grading, downspout extensions or French drains.

Reduce soil compaction – Heavy foot traffic and equipment can compact soil and restrict root growth. Aerate at least once per year to open up the ground.

Adjust mowing practices – Mowing too low causes grass blades and roots to weaken. Raise cutting height to recommended range for your turf type. Sharpen mower blades at least once per year.

Provide proper nutrition – Have soil tested to determine any pH or nutrient adjustments needed. Fertilize in spring and fall, plus summer for warm season grass. Avoid excess nitrogen which promotes weed growth.

Irrigate deeply – Water requirements vary by turf type, but most lawns need 1-1.5 inches per week. Early morning irrigation allows grass blades to dry during the day.

Control thatch – Excess thatch keeps water and nutrients from reaching grass roots. Dethatch lawns with more than 1⁄2 inch of accumulated organic matter.

Treat diseases/insects – Rule out fungal diseases, grub damage, chinch bugs and other stressors weakening your turf. Apply appropriate insecticides or fungicides as needed.

Reduce shade – Grass needs 4-6 hours of direct sunlight daily to flourish. Prune back encroaching trees and shrubs to open up the canopy.

Eliminating factors that thin and stress grass revitalizes your lawn’s health and density. This minimizes opportunities for barnyard grass to re-establish itself.

Overseed Bare Spots

Any remaining bare patches left after weeding are prime real estate for barnyard grass infestation. Quickly fill these in by overseeding with new grass suited to the light and drainage conditions.

Early fall is the ideal time to overseed cool season grasses like fescue and bluegrass. Warm season grasses like bermuda are best overseeded in spring.

Follow these tips for overseeding success:

  • Mow, dethatch and aerate the area to prepare a good seedbed. Remove any leftover weed debris.
  • Select a grass variety adapted for your climate. Choose a shade-tolerant cultivar if needed.
  • Mix seed with starter fertilizer and spread using a drop or rotary spreader for even coverage.
  • Rake lightly to settle seed into soil surface and improve contact.
  • Water gently multiple times per day to keep seedbed constantly moist until sprouts appear.
  • Once established, reduce watering frequency and allow roots to grow deeper.
  • Avoid heavy traffic on newly overseeded areas until the grass matures.

Promptly sowing grass seed in late summer/early fall denies barnyard grass the bare ground it needs to re-colonize. Thick, vigorous new turf will crowd out weeds next year.

Fall Pre-Emergent Application

While spring pre-emergent herbicide application helps prevent initial infestation, a follow-up fall treatment provides another line of defense.

Barnyard grass seeds lying dormant in the soil may germinate in late summer or fall. A pre-emergent barrier applied in early to mid fall blocks this late-season flush.

Time fall pre-emergent application approximately 60-90 days after your spring application. For northern regions, aim for late August to early September. In southern zones, mid to late September is ideal timing.

To maximize effectiveness, ensure pre-emergent makes good contact with soil:

  • Irrigate after applying to move product down into soil profile if rain is not expected soon
  • Avoid disturbing treated areas through cultivation or aeration for several months
  • Account for heavy thatch or leave accumulations that may intercept the herbicide barrier

Layering spring and fall pre-emergent herbicide application provides season-long control of barnyard grass and other annual summer weeds. It prevents new seeds from germinating and reinfesting treated areas.

Adjust Lawn Care Routine as Needed

Barnyard grass invasion indicates your current lawn maintenance program needs some tweaking. Use this experience to alter your practices going forward.

  • Keep grass mowed a little taller, especially during summer stress. Never cut off more than one-third of blade height at once.
  • Water more consistently at the first signs of drought to avoid wilting and decline.
  • Have soil tested and apply amendments as recommended. Follow fertilization guidelines for your turf type.
  • Inspect grass at least weekly and be more aggressive treating weeds early when young.
  • Seed, aerate and dethatch on a regular schedule instead of putting it off until theres a visible problem.
  • If unsure about lawn care techniques, invest in an annual maintenance package from a professional service.

Barnyard grass emerges when lawns are undernourished and neglected. Let its appearance guide improvements to your usual maintenance routines. A lush, vigorous lawn is the ultimate defense against reinvasion.

With a proactive defense of proper cultural practices and herbicides, barnyard grass doesn’t stand a chance. Your efforts now will reward you with a thick, beautiful lawn that remains free of this troublesome summer annual weed.

FAQs About Controlling Barnyard Grass

Dealing with a barnyard grass invasion leaves many homeowners with questions about identification, control methods, timing, and more. Here are answers to some frequently asked questions about managing this troublesome summer annual weed.

What is the Best Herbicide for Barnyard Grass?

Two of the most effective herbicide options for barnyard grass are:

Glyphosate – The active ingredient in Roundup and other non-selective brands. It translocates to the roots to kill the entire plant. Use carefully as a spot treatment only.

Quinclorac – Found in Ortho Weed B Gon Max and other crabgrass killers. It selectively controls grassy weeds without harming lawn grasses. Requires accurate application.

Other effective options include:

  • Mesotrione – Found in Tenacity herbicide. Turns barnyard grass white before killing it.
  • Topramezone – Active ingredient in Armezon selective post-emergent. Often mixed with quinclorac.
  • Fenoxaprop – Found in Acclaim Extra for use on turfgrass. Acts on grasses only.
  • Clethodim – Active in Grass Beater and other lawn weed killers. Controls annual grasses.

The “best” herbicide depends on your specific situation:

  • Glyphosate for vegetable gardens, beds, open ground
  • Quinclorac for spot treating in valued turfgrass
  • Tenacity in seedling turf that is still establishing

Follow label directions carefully for any product. Thorough coverage is key. Be patient, as herbicides require 7 to 14 days to fully kill barnyard grass.

When Should I Apply Pre-Emergent for Barnyard Grass?

Timing is critical for pre-emergent herbicides:

Spring: Apply in early to mid spring before soil temperatures reach 55-60°F. This provides a weed barrier during the main germination window.

Fall: Reapply approximately 60-90 days after your spring pre-emergent. Late August to mid September is ideal timing in most regions.

Pre-emergents create a chemical weed barrier that prevents seeds from sprouting. They won’t control plants that have already begun growing. Follow the above timing recommendations for maximum effectiveness on barnyard grass.

Does Vinegar Work to Kill Barnyard Grass?

Using horticultural vinegar is a popular home remedy for weeds. However, research has shown vinegar to be largely ineffective at controlling barnyard grass.

Vinegar is acetic acid derived from fermenting ethanol. Typical household vinegar contains just 5% acetic acid and does not kill plants. Horticultural vinegar has a higher acetic acid concentration between 10-20%.

While it may burn off the tops and leaves, vinegar does not translocate within the plant. There is no residual soil activity. Barnyard grass roots remain unharmed, allowing new growth to quickly recover.

Manual removal and post-emergent herbicides like glyphosate and quinclorac provide much better control. Leave vinegar as a culinary ingredient and use proper weed killers for barnyard grass.

Will Manual Pulling Get Rid of Barnyard Grass Permanently?

Manual removal provides temporary relief but rarely offers permanent control of barnyard grass. Its ability to regrow makes hand pulling an ongoing task.

The shallow roots of barnyard grass are easy to pull up. But bits of root left behind may resprout. And dormant seeds in the soil will continue to germinate all summer long.

Hand pulling certainly helps reduce seed production if done early and frequently. But it must be practiced diligently as part of an integrated strategy.

Post-emergent herbicides provide longer-lasting control because they translocate to kill the entire plant and roots. Pre-emergents block later seed germination.

Improve lawn density and care to prevent bare spots vulnerable to reinfestation. Manual removal works best alongside other chemical and cultural control measures that deter barnyard grass more permanently.

Dealing with this rapidly growing summer annual weed takes patience and persistence. But asking the right questions leads to smarter solutions. Combining manual removal, pre and post-emergent herbicides, and improved lawn management provides the best chance of banishing barnyard grass for good.

The Key To a Barnyard Grass-Free Lawn

After battling a barnyard grass invasion, you’re ready to ensure this stubborn annual weed never wreaks havoc in your lawn again. While it takes diligence and patience, freedom from barnyard grass is an achievable goal. Follow these proven tips to make your lawn resistant and resilient.

Start with prevention. Don’t wait for weeds to appear before taking action. Begin spring with a pre-emergent herbicide application to block seeds from germinating. Aim for early to mid spring timing before soil temperatures reach 55-60°F. Reapply in fall about 60-90 days later. Prodiamine, dithiopyr and pendimethalin create effective weed barriers.

Promote vigorous turf. A thick, healthy lawn squeezes out space for weeds. Fertilize at least twice yearly, spring and fall. Mow high, around 3-4 inches for cool season grasses. Water deeply to encourage deep roots. Aerate compacted soil. Promptly fill in bare patches. Robust grass withstands summer stress better.

Identify weeds promptly. Inspect your lawn at least weekly and identify any unfamiliar plants. Knowing your enemy makes targeting control easier. Dig up or spot spray young weeds before they become established. Early intervention prevents weeds from competing with desired grass.

Have the right herbicides on hand. Keeping glyphosate and quinclorac products ready allows you to take swift action against barnyard grass invaders. Glyphosate for non-lawn areas and quinclorac for spot treating in valued turfgrass. Use a surfactant for maximum contact and absorption.

Follow herbicide labels precisely. Post-emergent herbicides only work properly when applied at the right growth stage, rate and technique. Read labels thoroughly and don’t cut corners. Wait the recommended time period before mowing or disturbing treated areas. Be patient for products to fully translocate and work.

Reseed treated areas. Removing barmyard grass leaves bare spots prime for reinfestation. After herbicides have broken down, overseed thin areas with new grass suited for the light, drainage and traffic conditions. Fall overseeding prevents weeds from returning.

Adjust maintenance practices. If barnyard grass appeared, reassess your mowing, watering, fertilizing, aerating, dethatching and other lawn care habits. Make any needed tweaks to nourish grass better and correct underlying issues that led to invasion.

Enlist professional help if needed. Caring for 5,000+ square feet of lawn plus gardens and landscaping is a big job. Invest in a yearly maintenance plan from a professional lawn service if you’re struggling to stay on top of it all yourself. Their expertise and diligence will keep your landscape weed-free.

Barnyard grass might win a few battles, but you can win the war. A proactive defense focused on promoting vigorous grass growth while deterring weed seed germination will reward you with a lush, beautiful lawn free of this persistent summer invader. With a thoughtful strategy and consistent effort, you’ll keep barnyard grass from gaining a foothold ever again.

Key Takeaways: How To Get Rid Of Barnyard Grass In 4 Simple Steps

  • Barnyard grass thrives in the hot, dry conditions of summer that also weaken lawns. Left uncontrolled, it forms thick clumps and patches.
  • Promote vigorous turf through proper mowing, watering, fertilizing, aerating, and filling bare spots. Healthy grass resists invasion.
  • In spring and fall, apply pre-emergent herbicides like prodiamine to form a chemical barrier against weed seeds germinating.
  • For small patches, hand pull barnyard grass after rain while the soil is damp. Remove the entire plant including all roots.
  • Larger infestations can be spot treated with systemic post-emergent herbicides like glyphosate or quinclorac. Use carefully and precisely.
  • Treat bare areas left after weed removal by overseeding with new grass suited for the light and drainage conditions.
  • Adjust your regular lawn maintenance routine going forward to correct any issues that led to the invasion.
  • Ask a professional lawn service for help if needed improving your turf grass health and deterring barnyard grass permanently.
  • With some persistence using both chemical and cultural control methods, you can reclaim your lawn from a barnyard grass attack.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does barnyard grass look like?

Barnyard grass is a light green summer annual grass with long, flat leaves. It has a reddish-purple base and open, branching seed heads. The stems feel smooth rather than hairy.

When does barnyard grass germinate?

It germinates in summer when soil temperatures are 60-100°F. Peak emergence is usually June to July, but may start as early as April in warmer climates.

How long does barnyard grass live?

Barnyard grass is an annual plant that lives one season. It germinates in spring or summer, forms seed heads by late summer, then dies after the first hard frost.

How does barnyard grass spread?

Wind, contaminated crop seed, birds, water, and moving equipment help disperse seeds. A single plant can produce up to 40,000 seeds that spread to surrounding areas.

Will vinegar kill barnyard grass?

No, vinegar does not effectively control barnyard grass. The acetic acid only burns back the foliage but does not kill the roots. New growth quickly resumes.

How do you get rid of barnyard grass naturally?

Manually pulling young plants, maintaining a dense lawn canopy, adjusting mowing height, fertilizing appropriately, and overseeding bare spots are organic control methods.

What is the best herbicide for barnyard grass?

Glyphosate or quinclorac-containing products work well. Glyphosate for non-lawn areas, quinclorac for spot spraying in valued turfgrass. Ensure proper application timing and technique.

How do I stop barnyard grass from returning?

Spring and fall pre-emergent herbicide application provides season-long control by preventing weed seeds from sprouting. Promote vigorous grass and alter lawn care practices to prevent reinfestation.

When should I call a professional for barnyard grass control?

If the infestation is severely impacting your lawn’s health, covers a very large area, or continues returning despite your best efforts, contacting a professional landscaper is a good idea.

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